Archive for ‘capitalism’

              Factory outside Beijing manufacturing for H&M
              photos Erik Bernhardsson

 



 

 

Fin de Copenhague

Erik B. in the World
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cards from HELLO WORLD

 
 
 
 


Shenzhen. photos Erik Bernhardsson

 

…     
i can never concentrate hard enough on relational aesthetics.
i get worked up, because i love kaprow like everyone loves kaprow,
but then his spirit only lingers so long
   
…     
… relational aesthetics is about making room for exchange in a world dulled by the captilasation of all of our exchanges. it seeks an alternative space, event-spaces, but doesn’t it undo itself inasmuch as it lances itself off from most of our real lives thanks to its truly fantastic notion of a fully transparent public realm?    
…     
… the other night when i was thinking about bloomsbury i was thinking that we should bury relational aesthetics and replace it with relational aestheticism.


R.C. 1999 ( from F de C Reader 2012-1 ) photo A.H.
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Maison Martin Margiela 70% OFF. Beijing . (photo e.b.)


système de la mode. bali, indonesia. 2012. photo ah


Weavery outside Beijing. photo Erik Bernhardsson


  post modern tokyo / Fool’s Mate March 1984
 akira asada, masashi kitamura


                       





Homage to Mr. Lang’s archive (2011, a.h.)

 

SILK WORKERS

… Women are the chief workers, contributing 90 per cent. of the labor. Here again the toil is taxing beyond belief.

The brunt of the work consists first in filling the mouths of the worms, which must be fed at regular intervals night and day for about three weeks, during the last few days of which they eat continuously and voraciously. It has been found that the rearing of worms can best be done only on a small scale, where minute attention can be given to each tray, almost to each worm. This means that worms are reared in the homes of the people, rather than in large establishments. During the silkworm season everything else must give way; the house is filled with trays of ravenous worms; rest, recreation, and sleep, for old and young alike, are neglected in order that the precious worms may get their fill. Men and boys bring in the mulberry leaves from the hills and fields, while women and girls strip the branches, chop the leaves and feed them to the magic creatures that transform worthless green leaves into costly silk. The leaves must not be damp, nor old, and every condition of weather and temperature must be watched with the closest care. Otherwise there is loss. This heavy work comes twice each year, in some places three times. That is to say, there are two or three crops of silkworms.

Then, after the cocoons have been formed, comes the reeling off of the silk, as much as possible before the sleeping grub wakens and eats its way out, destroying the silk it has spun for its nest. So again there is pressure, and again women do the work—I never heard of a man reeling silk. It takes the deft hand and quick eye of a girl to catch the thread in the boiling water, connect it with the wheel, and unroll without breaking the almost invisible thread so wonderfully wound up by the worm. This work is often done in the homes, but increasingly now, because more profitably, in factories where the girls can be closely watched by inspectors and paid according to the skill and the amount of their work. …

 
 
Working Women of Japan, Sidney Lewis Gulick 1915

 
 

     

 
 
silk samples , Christian Dior

 
 
 

 
Kyoka and Ai are wearing the standard 2010 cotton shopping bags of the Martin Margiela shop reworked into the form of 1998-99 MMM grocery bag shirts



A commodity is in the first place an object outside us, a thing that by its properties satisfies human wants of some sort or another. …


… A commodity appears at first sight an extremely obvious, trivial thing.
But its analysis brings out that it is a very strange thing, abounding in metaphysical subtleties and theological niceties


Marx – Capital

 

    chieko kawaguchi , alin huma. (from o | u, 2003)


               

dubai. ph ah

 

the wind diaries, tuesday:
i wanted punk today.  just to deal with the early heat.  the extra distance to a different job venue.  but i had no punk. for various reasons.  
i had to wait for home for it.  for now.  for some man and female yelling in almost harmony to drive me into sweetness.


from sketchbook of Junichi Takehara. 2003


photo: Arnaud Meuleman

photos: alin huma


the wind diaries, tuesday

picked up a new bike today. in front of the watchman i switched bars, put on clipless pedals, put the old bars in my backpack. i got out on the road and a weird clunk spooked me, but i rode on for a few hundred meters before i realised i hadn’t actually tightened my pedals. bad start, though it got better. it’s been such a long time since i’ve had a new bike, it fit was like i was riding for the first time. i took it easy. i was shy with it. i flirted, asking little questions like: do i get toe overlap? no. it spoke back with some odd creaks, maybe just announcing its newness. fine. finer, though, were the nitto flat bars. they made the ride as good as i’ve had for a long while. oh that and a super light gearing. 47/19. practically nothing. it feels like a new start. i put the carardice barley on the back, attached a pump to the seat tube. i said it felt like a new start. it does.


Mykonos. 2007. photos: a h


      Matt Hunt 2005
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… EMPLOYERS, INSTEAD OF VALUING THE SCHLEPS WITH THEIR MANILA FOLDERS, WERE RECOGNISING THE GENIUS OF OUR TYPE. THESE EMPLOYERS WOULD FIGHT FOR US, FIGHT TO DO ALL THEY COULD TO MAKE US COMFORTABLE BECAUSE THEY KNEW THAT WE WERE ESSENTIAL TO THEIR SUCCESS, THAT OUR IDEAS WERE GOLD, THAT OUR CREATIVITY WAS A DELICATE THING INDEED, AND THAT WE WOULD NEED NEW COMMUNITIES TO KEEP US INTERESTED, THAT WE NEEDED DAILY FLUX AND MELTING POTS AND VIETNAMESE FOOD AND THAT THIS AND THIS ALONE COULD SUSTAIN US.

THESE EMPLOYERS WERE FINDING US UNALIENATED FROM OUR LABOUR JUST AS ADORNO WAS, AND UNDERSTANDING THAT WE HAVE NO NEED OF WHAT THE MASSES CALL FREE TIME. WE HAVE NO NEED FOR HOLIDAYS AND LUXURY CARS AND TIME OFF IN LIEU.

THAT IS ALL WEAKNESS, LET US STAND UP AND BE GREAT MEN WHO LABOUR FOR ALL GREAT MEN.

WE ARE GREAT MEN WHO DO NOT FEAR CHANGE, WE EMBRACE IT, BECAUSE AS FLORIDA PREDICTED, WE DO INDEED MOVE FROM WORK STATION TO WORK STATION, MOVING HORIZONTALLY RATHER THAN VERTICALLY. AS HE PUTS IT: CLIMBING THE CORPORATE LADDER IS NO LONGER SO POPULAR, PERHAPS PARTLY BECAUSE THERE ISN’T AS MUCH OF A LADDER IN MANY OF TODAY’S LEANER FLATTER FIRMS – AND IT IS LIABLE TO SHIFT OR VANISH BEFORE YOU’RE HALFWAY UP. INSTEAD, MORE OF US SWIMMING FROM TREE TO TREE IN SEARCH OF VARIOUS FRUIT”. (P113). IN FACT, VERTICAL DEVELOPMENT AS SUCH IS SOMETHING WE ARE FULLY OVER. VERTICAL DEVELOPMENT IS SOMETHING NONE OF US HAVE EVER EXPERIENCED THOUGH WE HAVE SEEN OUR ELDERS-BUT-HARDLY-BETTERS RISE IN VERTICAL FASHION. THAT IS ENOUGH TO PUT US OFF.

WE BELIEVE IN REGULAR RETOOLING AND WE THINK THIS SAVES US FROM DEPRESSION. WE BASICALLY FIGURE THAT IF AS THE EXPERTS ARE SAYING THE DEPRESSIVE CONDITION CAN BE TOO MUCH FOCUSED ON THE SELF, THEN THE ENGAGED AND VIGOROUS ENGAGEMENT WITH THE WORLD AS A PLASTIC METONYMIC APPARATUS NOT A MOPEY METAPHORICAL ONE, WILL KEEP US SAFE AND SANE.

THESE ATTITUDES HAVE KEPT US BANKABLE PROPERTIES AND SHAPE OUR RELATION TO THE HIGHLY RENUMERATED CULTURE MAKING WE ENGAGE IN TODAY.

… WE ARE VICTIMS GODDAMN IT, THOSE OF US ESPECIALLY WHO GREW UP IN THE 1990′S, WHO WORKED IN NOT JUST A CRITICAL VACUUM THAT HAD NO TIME FOR ANYTHING BUT THE FUCKING LOCAL, BUT A WASTELAND OF OPPORTUNITY TOO THAT MADE US TOO SCARED TO TAKE RISKS AND…

… WELL, I GUESS WE DID BELIEVE THAT CREATIVES – AND NOT AD CREATIVES WITH THEIR SHORT PANTS AND SKATE SHOES – WOULD RUN THE COUNTRY. AND YES WE WENT OUT AND BOUGHT BIKES AND WENT RUNNING TOO …

… BUT, ANYWAYS, WE MADE OURSELVES, LIKE WE WERE TRYING TO SAY ABOVE, A SOCIETY OF PEERS AND STUFF AND TALK TO EACH OTHER AND IT’S WORKING OUT PRETTY WELL ALL THINGS CONSIDERING …

…. WE BELIEVE THAT ALL DISCUSSION IS OVERKILL, THAT THEORY AND WRITING ARE SUPERFLUOUS, THAT THERE IS NO DEBATE THAT WE SIT WITHIN ANYMORE. WE ARE COMMITTED TO THE IDEA THAT THERE IS JUST YOU AND YOUR NAKED BODY BY THE WINDOW …

… AND WE … ARE JUST HAPPY TO CHART SOME CONNECTIONS ON THE INTERNET. THEY ARE THUS: ON JOHN PORCELLINO’S WEBSITE IS A LINK TO JEFFERY BROWN AND ON HIS SITE IS A LINK TO THE GALLERY LA MANO THAT TURNS OUT TO BE RUN BY ZAK SALLY THE BASS PLAYER FROM LOW AND ON THAT SITE IS A LINK TO PAPER CUT OUT ARTIST IDA PEARLE, A ONE TIME BAND MEMBER OF IDA, AND A LINK TO THE SECRET STARS A BAND WHO DISTRIBUTED TAPES ONLY AND ARE COVERED BY IDA AND YET ANOTHER FAVOURITE BAND OF OURS, DEATH CAB FOR CUTIE. ALL THIS LOVE ON THE INTERNET IS WHAT OUR CULTURE IS ABOUT. THESE ARE OUR PEOPLE, OUR SOFT PLACES, WHERE WE DO NOT FIGHT ANYMORE, BUT EMBRACE THE FRAGILITY OF THE AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL, FREE AT LAST, FROM YOUR EXAMINATIONS AND JUDGING EYES.

WE ARE AGAINST STUDENTS AND THE STUDENT BODY AND BIC REFILLS AND KIDS TAKING TEN YEARS TO COMPLETE THEIR STUDIES AND ADULTS WHO GET PHDS AND WHO GO TO CONFERENCES AND SPEAK AS IF PEOPLE CARE ABOUT CONTENT AND NOT FORM AND WE ARE AGAINST ANYONE WHO HAS EVER RUNG UP SOMEONE AND SAID …

… WE HAPPILY GAVE UP OUR JOBS IN THE ART WORLD. I MEAN WHO TALKS ABOUT ART THESE DAYS? IT’S EMBARRASSING, LIKE TALKING ABOUT SPIRITUALITY, THERE ARE SOME THINGS WE DON’T DO, THAT SHOULD BE LEFT BEHIND IN THE 1960s, LEFT IN REPRINTS OF HERBERT READ, IN THE HANDS OF SCIENTISTS WHO WAX LYRICAL ABOUT THE ARTISTIC ELEMENT IN CHAOS, IN OFFICE WORKERS WANTING SOMETHING MORE, IN PEOPLE GOING BACK TO ART SCHOOL AFTER YEARS IN THE LAWN MOWING BUSINESS, LEFT WITH PEOPLE IT MIGHT MEAN SOMETHING TO AS PART OF A DEEP PERSONAL COMMITMENT THING, OF HOW THEY POSITION A GREAT BEYOND TO THE EXIGENCIES OF DAILY PAIN AND PERSONAL TRAGEDY AND MISERY. WE WANT NO PART OF THAT.

WE BOUNCE TO IPODS FULL OF CAGEAN SOUNDTRACKS IN REALISATION THAT AVANT-GARDE ART DIDN’T CO-OPT THE WORLD, THE WORLD SIMPLY TOOK BACK WHAT ART WAS HOARDING – THOUGH IT ALWAYS SEEMED THE OPPOSITE. THE SCARE QUOTES IT WAS IN THE HABIT OF PUTTING AROUND EVERY DAMNED THING – NO MORE.

WE KNOW THAT NOW ART – KEPT LIKE A PET – IS SIMPLY A REMINDER ABOUT THAT TIME, WHEN THERE WAS THAT GAP, THE FRAIL LINE OF SEPARATION, ENOUGH TO SET DESIRE IN MOTION SURE, BUT STOPPING IT MUTATE …

… WE WEAR BACKPACKS AND DO NOT FEAR YOUR GUNS.
WE THINK AIR FRESHENER IS AN OKAY INVENTION. …

September 2005. Fragments from Acquittal Report #1. Originally published in super-limited editions of 10 to 20. Soon to be made available here as pdfs